The Patabhi express

An easy flight to Bangalore, landing and searching for another ATM to fill up the amount needed to pay the Patabhi Jois Yoga Shala fees.
The Spice Jet flight was filled with Ashtagis (Ashtanga Yoga practitioners) that are heading to practice in the main shala (Yoga studio) of Patabhi Jois. A group of Italians, including a famous teacher from Milan and her hilarious son of 14 that is in India with his mom for the year as she practices her Yoga, Kate a teacher from the US, Avi, an Israeli from Maui with his famous dreadlocks, and some others from around the world.

We pick up the luggage including Kate’s new missing wheel on her suitcase, and Avi gets us the taxi. Two hours of roundabouts in Bangalore as the driver doesn’t really know the way to Mysore. It is already 11:30 at night and I am grateful for Yoga as I manage to curl up in weird shapes in the back of the tiny car to try and get some rest.

The Shala reopens its doors this weekend and considering the great weather here, and the 3 week time off students had, the place is expected to be packed. Many warnings about never finding a place, and not being able to even practice in the shala have planted minimum fear in me, and somehow I’ve decided to go with no plans or reservations and see what happens.
I landed at Lisa’s place on my first night, as she arrived that morning with a 20-hour train.

The next morning, I get a tour in the really nice neighborhood of Gokulam; beautiful houses and even nice cars around, very calm.
I meet the great Shiiva, the man that can take care of any of your needs here in Mysore, and even he doesn’t seem to have much to offer as for where to live. After wandering around and asking quite a bit, a find a beautiful little room across from a park, and settle in.
Indeed the yoga here is the most expensive one can find, but everything else is very inexpensive, even compared to Goa.

4:30pm registration to the shala opens, and at 12:30 there are already a few lining up outside. By 3:30 the road is filled with Yogis greeting each other, hugging and sharing stories, catching up from the last time they all met here.
Climbing up the stairs to the shala, filling out my form and counting my money. From the outside a few Japanese were organizing and guiding the eager students to the shala.
In the inside room, Sharat (Patabhis grandson and the one that pretty much runs the show now) is behind one table, with a beard, concentrating at his task. At the table next to him sits the great and famous Patabhi Jois also known as Guruji. He is wearing a brown wool hat that covers his head, ears and neck. He seems different than when I’ve seen him in NY some years back. His hands that have adjusted so many students, that have guided many to become great Ashtangis and devotees, are now resting on the table, adorned with gold and diamond rings, his eyes gazing over towards his grandson as he is doing hid tasks. Guruji seems only half present, yet he still wears a kind face as he sees so many of his long time students.
Across from him sits his daughter, Saraswati. She gets up, moves around and makes sure we all know what the new rate is.
Next, calls Sharat. I enter, place my stack on the table and await my faith; at what time will I need to show up for practice? He puts the money through an automatic money counter like in the bank then turns back to me, pulls out a card. The first shift is at 5:00. They have the advantage of not waiting. Sharat tells me 6:15 and then changes it to 5:45. The ones before and after me are at 5:00, not sure why. I think I was even hoping to be later, like 6:30. I admit that getting up before 5:00 has never been exciting for me unless it was to catch a plane for a great vacation once in many years.
The line is still long when I exit. To the coconut stand or home?
After celebrating my last night in Goa with a swim in the ocean followed by a delicious tandoori Pom frit at Shore Bar, my stomach is a bit sensitive, and I head home to rest. Curd and 12 hours of rest put me back on my feet, for a free day before the practice begins.