Saturday, December 4, 2010

Gili Trawangan

Wayan 2 (his nick name since every first born in Bali gets the name of Wayan) drives us from the Hyatt to Padang Bai, from a grand resort the size of a village, to a small village the size of a resort. Padang Bai is quaint, a bay with lots of traditional fishing boats, narrow boats carved out of a single tree with long bamboo floaters parallel to the boats to keep the boat from tipping, like arms extending out of the body. The boats are colorful, and people are moving at a slow pace. To one end is the ferry terminal, and beside it are the speedboats ready to take passengers to the Gili Islands and Lombok. Lombok is a big Island to the south east of Bali, it’s Muslim sister, with the Gili’s set as three flat islands dotted with palm trees, one after the other, Gili Air, Gili Manu, and Gili Trawangan, the one we were headed to.

Strolling aimlessly at Padang Bai, buying some purple taro chips, or at least this is what I imagined it to be, as whatever I asked the old, wrinkled smiley woman, her answer was a nod of approve. The only thing she really understood were fingers showing the price, 3 fingers meaning 3 thousand rupees. It’s about 9000 rupee per dollar, so once you start with items that cost more, it can get confusing. How much is this bracelet, 30 cents, 3 dollars or wait, maybe 30? In Israel before it got so confusing the Lira was changed to a Shekel and the Shekel transformed into the New Israeli Shekel, where 3 zeros were taken away. Since then the Shekel has not done so badly, no more new currency is introduced for now.

We went swimming at the Bloo Lagoon beach, beautiful water surrounded by lava cliffs almost forming a lagoon, with some cacti growing all over the cliffs around. Yes, those cacti in a small form that I imagine in Arizona or Israel, but hey, they were there, just at the edge of the lush vegetation.

Back to our room, I opened the munchies bag and consciously ate an Oreo tube of cookies. It’s been years, and now I know why. It did not take long till I was horizontal, and stayed that way till 4am. OK, so it’s not all due to Oreos, I surely was mentally in need of decompression after the tour, but the Oreos were a great catalyst.

Changing US dollars as the only ATM was not working and we were told there is no ATM on the Island, which later we found out that a brand new one was installed. A quick reminder that you get better rates for 100-dollar bills, 20’s don’t get you far.

The boat ride was fun and smooth, meeting two Finish girls backpacking, sharing with them some of our food, learning from them how Chaotic is Kuta, listening to some French two seats ahead, a group of Australian teenagers being all sexy at the back of the boat; every ride, every new place holds a whole new mini cosmos, with humans absolutely sure that this is all that exists. I wonder if the water splashing at the side of the speedboat has any feeling of separate identity from the ocean as it shines in the sun for a moment before it descends back into the great ocean, swallowed by the deep blue.

Approaching Gili, I sit on the top front of the boat, wind blowing my messy hair back, the sun finding my skin between the stubble, giving it a nice roast, as I watch the white sand and turquoise water grow larger. Water is too shallow, so we transfer to a smaller boat that takes us ashore. We step into the warm water, get our luggage and a small attack of locals approach us asking if we want a room. The transportation on the Island is by feet, bicycles or horse carriages.

Gorman and Denise form the yoga tour have decided to join us on this adventure. Gorman and Lauren stay behind with the luggage as Denise and I scout for a room.
We settle in, relax, eat, walk, and drop into beach life. We needed a second day to do some more of nothing, swim in their salt-water pool, snorkeling right in front of our two story cottage, snorkeling, seeing turtles, blow fish, reading and some yoga.
Finally we are ready for a glass bottom boat ride that will take us around the other two Gili Islands and snorkeling, corals, turtles and beautiful quiet beaches. Sweet group, lots of Canadians, 2 super dark skin locals, and me getting darker by the minute.

The following day we rented bicycles and rode all around the Island. Empty beaches spotted with some new upcoming resorts. The nice thing is that all that is being built is not completely on the beach, has mostly a local feel and blends in, but it will sure change the demographics. Gili T, started as a party island, and later families and couples joined in as well, as the parties are contained to a small area and specific days. We are here a bit off-season so there seem to be no big parties anyway.

There are veggie options, but it sure is a heaven for the fish and seafood lover, with lots of fresh grilled fish on the beach, the catch of the day. Dinner to candle light, or some kerosene lamps, there is wifi in some restaurants, some have quiet music, some play Kenny G for the tourists, and my favorite played assortment of Buddha Bar compilations.

We kept seeing the Finish girls, and saw them off to their boat to Kuta as we were heading to snorkel. On the snorkeling boat connected with a Canadian girl that joined our biking day, and on the boat back to Padang Bai, we met two sisters from Holland. Surely some of the travel experience is connecting with other travelers, hearing stories, and learning about their lives. On the chill out day, I spent two hours in the swimming pool walking around the shallow waters, discussing poetry, spirituality, Zen and Kabalah with a French poet.

Wayan 1 met us as we arrived back to Padang Bai. We visited a traditional Balinese village; a village that was kept separate from the outside as to promote the conservation of tradition. We saw hand weaving, egg painting, basket weaving and carvings, delicate and beautiful work with no hassle. We continued on a scenic drive up the mountains, rice fields, local carrying a variety of things on their heads, lots of roosters in cages getting ready for their battle, a flock of humans walking on the street on their way to a burial, a farmer walking his ducks along the side of the road using along pole with red feathers at the end to keep them together, valleys and hills, curves, and lava mines, temples every where, and people giving offerings all the time. Little banana leaves with some rice, incense and flowers, splashing some perfumed water as the place the offerings at every corner. In the temples, as well as their homes, businesses or simple on the street. When walking in Ubud, where we arrived later that night, one has to constantly watch their step as there are just about the same amount of free spots to walk on as there are covered with offerings.

Tomorrow we leave Bali, and if I had to summarize it in just a few words, they would include, smiles, friendliness, offerings, spirit, lush, beautiful beaches, temples, rice fields, snake skin fruit, and fresh juice. Of course there was much more, but to experience the full thing, join me on my next trip, maybe May 2011?

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Bali Photos

Bali part 2

A speedboat took us to Menjangan, a national park known for its reef and coral beauty. Warm wind blowing my hair back Fonzy style, san the sleek, crystal blue water and the site of a huge volcano appearing above the clouds in front of us. takes us on this white and blue wooden boat to snorkel off the boat and off from shore. Swimming along the reef, with an amazing array of colors and shapes, both fish and corals, and some stinging mini jellyfish. After lunch on the beach we head back, I sit on the top front end of the boat loving the sun and the wind as the boats speeds ahead. We go towards some fishing boats and slow down a lot, as we see some tuna jumping out of the water, which means dolphins, are here too. I thought that what makes the tuna fatty, yummy and healthy is the fact that in order to survive in the cold water it has higher levels of fatty acids which allow it to keep moving and not freeze. If that is the case, what is it doing here in warm waters, and does it have less omega 3’s because of its ability to swim without it?

Sure enough, dolphins were there, one, two, wait, maybe ten, wow, too many to count! We saw large schools of them, just swimming leisurely as if the Internet was never invented. No worries about real estate or even being on time for yoga, just swimming through life, opening their mouths and swallowing tuna whole. What a day. We were like little kids jumping from one side of the boat to the other, following more dolphins, full of excitement and delight!

A long drive back to Ubud, maybe too long, I am ready to see it. Trying to stay present, I still found myself having an image of what it would be like. A town, not too big, no high rises, lots of shops, a cool market, tons of restaurants, some nice hotels, but none huge and overwhelming. Ubud has its touristic side, yet it has charm. Massages for ten to twenty dollars, “Kafe”, that served amazing lemon ginger tea, or lemongrass, ginger with Indonesian leaves along a raw black current cashew cake, art galleries (or shops), lots of crafts, wood carvings, boutique clothing stores, a yoga store, and lets not forget the monkey forest. We arranged for a temple tour seeing the elephant temple as well as another great temple, beautiful sculptures everywhere.

I entered the Zen massage place, and enjoyed the soft music. I was led through a tunnel, walking of stepping stones set amidst a flow of water, entered my room with hand painted rice fields on the wall, got undressed and lay on the massage table covered with a sheet. The little Balinese woman came in, and moved her hands along my body, first over the sheet, and then with lots of oil, rubbing my body. Next came the spice rub, cinnamon, cloves or other spices were mixed and spread on my skin. She left the room, allowing me to feel abandoned, wanting more hands on as I wait. She returned to spread the dried spice mix a bit further, and then added a freezing cold layer of yogurt on top. I became a whole meal. When she finished one side, I flipped and received the same treatment on the other side. Then she told me to shower. I waited for a second, but she encouraged me to get up. It was funny, it’s almost as if I forgot I was naked. I was showering as she as cleaning the massage table. “You take bath twenty minutes, you drink tea, eat fruit and finish, OK?” Ok I replied. So easy to be obedient to some one demanding me to relax and enjoy.

I bought some Yoga clothes at a cool local shop, spent a few hours there contemplating importing some goods back to the US, even created a whole business plan for it. We ate at Clear Water, which was absolutely awesome. Live bamboo separated the fantastic modern meets local Bali style restaurant, in a way similar but different to the Buddha bar in Paris, amazing detail, great music, wonderful food and reasonable prices. The food was exactly what I love, from a plate of Middle Eastern dips with raw flax seed crackers and some pita crisps, through tofu sachets in yummy peanut sauce, dragon bowl similar to the one in Manhattan, tuna with black pepper along wit a side of wasabi mashed potatoes, and delicious raw chocolate coffee cake or lemon strawberry cake for dessert.

From Ubud we head to Sanur to the Hyatt, hosting a huge complex with lots of pools, a long stretch of beach, and a few restaurants. This was our last stop with the group. I had a wonderful time with them, and felt a great connection. Like all my retreats, the people and my interactions with them, the sharing’s are what make the trip a highlight. We had some bumps relating to the organizing part of the tour, which I was not in charge of. It was hard for me to not be completely in charge, trusting someone else with such a large part of the trip, but a great learning experience, and I am truly grateful for the support, patience and trust of my students.

As I write this from the beach on the Gili Island, I have now created the perfect itinerary for the next one, scouting and figuring out every detail, as Lauren says “ When Doron plans something himself, he has it down to a T.” This phrase does not make sense to me, but I like it. Off to connect to the slow Internet with lots of gratitude, as I still remember sending a handful of letters instead of this easy blog.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Field Trip to Bali

The cool kids sat at the end of the bus. That’s how it was when we would go on field trips in high school. It was complete chaos, but there was excitement in the air.

This trip, everyone is far beyond high school, and it seems as if everyone is equally cool. There are eighteen of us, including an American trip organizer, a Balinese guide, a driver, and the rest of the yoga practitioners.

The airport was the first delight with great sculptures everywhere, many depicting Hindu Gods. A brand new Suzuki van with no seat belts takes us up the mountains as we head towards Munduk,, as the sun was setting over the two lakes.

Marigold necklaces are draped over our necks, as greeting smiles flower around. Water fountains, lotus ponds, and lush vegetation with beautiful flowers are abundant. The cottage is set up on stilts with a dark wooden balcony, over looking the little pond below hosting calm fish unaware of the expansive rice field’s just meters behind them.

Dinner consisted of a vegetarian sampling. Skewers of tofu in a Balinese sauce, tempeh in something like a BBQ sauce, cabbage in peanut sauce, a sort of latke, and Chrysanthemum tea. Every meal is shared with some other friends from the group, exploring diversity of life experiences, listening to stories, and enjoying others on chill mode. The rice terraces on the hills across from us have heard it all by now.

The next day we explored the property, walking through little temples, rice fields, spice plants, ponds, statues everywhere, and magnificent views of the mountains and villages around. What really makes it wonderful are the details, the smile of a passer-by, the gold fish in the pond, the bamboo mini bridge, the beautiful red flowers draping off huge semi translucent bright green leaves, the sounds of water flowing through streams and in and out of ponds.

We adventured off property and let destiny take our feet through the jungle, passing homes with bird cages holding quiet pretty blue birds, vanilla beans for sale off of someone’s front yard, coffee beans laid down to dry, wandering dogs, and mopeds everywhere. Everyone from young to old is on a moped. All Japanese made.

We took a trip to a coffee and spice plantation and sampled some fox shit coffee. It’s not really a fox, but looks similar. The fox goes out at night, searching for the best coffee beans, it is a very picky animal. It eats the coffee bean, digesting only the skin, and then poops out the bean. Since the fox is so picky this is considered the best bean one can find. We had to try it once, as Wayan our guide told us, “Try it once and that’s it, you don’t want to drink shit twice!” This coffee is sold for $500 in Japan.

After morning yoga and breakfast we head to the beach. We arrive in Pemuteran, at the magnificent resort of Taman Sari Bali Cottages, and really, I would call it no name except the experience of bliss.

What can I say? Heaven is here. I would stay here for a month without blinking. Beautiful grass dotted with flowers, sculptures and Japanese like lanterns. Our room has an amazing outdoor shower surrounded by pebbles, with a huge marble floored porch, a step from the little pond that flows as a stream between the rooms, gold fish, a sculpture fountain, and perfectly organized vegetation surround it. Large Indonesian wood furniture with blue cushions decorated with butterflies sewn on it. The awning is made of perfectly tight tied palm leaves. I’ll stop here as I feel like nothing would portray the amazingness of this place. I tried to take photos but even they do not do justice. The swimming pool by the ocean is wonderful and warm. Everywhere you look there are sculptures or statues, amazing vegetation and water streams.

Off to teach the afternoon session, a Dharma talk, presenting my path, the relationship of Yoga and Zen – Zoga! Stay tuned more coming soon…

Love, D

Monday, October 25, 2010

The original sin

She ran towards me naked, wearing a big smile and her crocks. Why not barefoot on the grass I thought? Maybe to make sure her feet don’t get dirty or that she doesn’t step on anything? There was a sense of freedom in her movement. She was liberated and joyful. I heard my name come out of her sweet perfectly created lips. I love the feel of the earth under my feet. Connecting with the energy of the earth, I stepped into the Jacuzzi and she followed, barely making it over, even though she is relatively tall for a three year old.

I recently attended a Baptism class. For the fist time in my life I am honored with the title Godfather. It is not so common in Israel, but since my Goddaughter is Catholic and lives in the bay area, it’s a different story.

“It is with this water that we wash away the original sin’”, explained the priest. He started with describing the temptation of the fruit that was forbidden, and how that led to the awareness of the man and the woman of their being naked.
“God called for man and woman, ‘where are you?’
‘We are hiding’, they replied.
‘And why are you hiding?’ asked God
‘Because we are naked’
‘And how do you know you are naked? Ahh, you must have eaten from the tree’”.

The priest gave us the story in a very easy to understand way. We sat there on simple chairs, a few parents with their babies and a few Godparents to be.
“By washing their original sin, they will be able to go up straight to heaven.”
Oops I thought. Not good being Jewish, I still am wearing that original sin, yet I feel very comfortable naked and love bathing at the Esalen hot springs with only my skin on.

After seeing my niece running so freely naked, completely careless of needing to hide anything, I wonder. Who is it that brings on us the original sin? When is it that Maya will realize that she needs to cover up?
Are we able to relieve ourselves from some of the conditioning we carry and find the liberty of life?

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Becoming a citizen

I am officially a member of a political group titled the United States of America.

Just the title: Unites States makes me think…

And the United we stand…

All this unity is a unity of us vs. them. Not a complete unity of all there is.

For years I was waiting to feel welcomed in this country. I moved from a status of a tourist to a status of an extraordinary talent. That title did not keep me from being interrogated every time I passed passport control. Becoming a permanent resident was a huge deal, mostly in forgetting the past. Once I had the green card there was a sense of calmness that came with it, even security. At least I was not going to be thrown away. But now I am IN, I am officially an American; I can choose to say Nationality Israeli or American. Depending on where I am, and which of the two is more disliked. A Canadian passport would probably be more welcomed in some countries. Now when will I be able to walk around with my World Human passport; the passport that declares me as a human being, without any further group belonging, separation of me vs. others, A passport that contains only important info regarding the safety of the country I visit.

The Naturalization ceremony took place in a huge theater. There were hundreds of people listening to some encouraging words, allowing us to feel welcomed and connected to the club. I felt like joining the army. I am here to serve, to protect, and to give up my loyalty to any other nation. Patriotism always scared me. “It’s a good day to die for our country”, said one famous Israeli fighter. And I think it’s a great day to live. Period. Not for a country or for anyone, but just live. When time to die comes, it would be a fine day as well, but not for any country, dying for a country most likely means dying fighting against others.

Then came the moment where a name of country was announced and those from that nationality (or ex nationality) would stand up. So many countries, so many people, now I felt my stomach moving, this is the union, the connection of so many people together. “China” was called, and a huge group came to stand, small countries from Africa, Ethiopia was called, India, and again another huge group comes to stand, Israel, I stand up, I saw another young man stand, tears came to my eyes, not even sure why, but I started feeling the “united we stand”, of how I wish we were all doing this to become members of the universe, a place where all are welcomed to join as long as their intention to be good to themselves and others were sincere.

I now hold an American passport, and for the first time in my life wrote “American’ on the entry document to Mexico. Am I different, has my identity changed? Does it change who I am?

I am grateful to have freedom in this country and wish all humans to have freedom wherever they are, inner freedom as well as freedom related to their society.

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Haramara Mexico Retreat - The Road to Freedom

Walking out of the airport the heat and humidity shower over me, greeting me with some tropical love of last days of the rainy season.

An hour to pass while we wait for a fellow yogini to arrive, what could be better that getting some local flavor. The fish taco place is right across the peeling yellow paint of the metal bridge. The place is like a garage with doors fully open and a wide open welcoming, accompanied by some friendly waiters.

The restaurant is dark even though there are no doors, the old paint on the walls covered with lots of black and white photos of proud fishermen with swordfish as their prize, a TV showing a soccer match with all the waiters looking up at the little figures running around on a semi green grass, after the black and white ball. Time is slower here, and no one seems to be in a rush, but neither are we, so we enjoy the new atmosphere. The waiters were very aware of whatever need we might have, which later, we would find more of, at Haramara. I had a feeling that they really cared, took their position of being in service with utmost respect. When teaching a yoga class I always enter with the same intention. Like an eagle from above, seeing who might need help, what verbal cue may I offer to hint the person in the back to adjust slightly, what gentle touch can I offer to better the experience of the student.

Wiping off constant sweat, I finish the last bite of the finely grilled fish in its wonderful subtle spice sauce.

Returning to the airport, yogini girl’s flight is delayed another hour or so, so we head to the bar to get our first cerveza in Mexico. Well, in reality it was the only one I had, but more than anything it gave a feeling of celebration. At times it is not about what I do, but the intention and how often I do it that springs a sense of celebration. Even the most amazing thing done all the time, over and over again, can lose its charm. Here comes the practice of celebrating the mundane, the every day life, as if anything we do is sacred, a ceremony, as if every time is the first time.

The mini van that took us an hour drive north to Haramara was an American SUV with powerful air conditioning and a mighty driver. It will be a whole week till we step again into the space of controlled weather. Traffic slows down as the bridge we need to cross has collapsed into the river, surrendering to the power of the heavy rains coming down just shortly before our arrival. We shared lanes with the newer bridge, and felt what it was like in the days when there was only one bridge. It is amazing how hard it is to go backwards, to lose comforts that are already gained. If I never had running water, and all I knew was going to the well outside to fetch it, than that would be my life, but if for some months I have the luxury of a tap in my home, then returning to what I had for a much longer time frame would be a total hardship. Same with having a better freeway, and then having it collapse. Nothing lasts forever.

The adventurous driver took us through the shoulders, around road barriers and an inch from a bus, testing the conditioning we have of what proper driving might be. The last bit of road was where the SUV needed to prove itself over mud and some very uneven terrain. When leaving Haramara we would not even recognize the road, as it will be so dry and smooth.

Haramara is built in such a way that that the jungle still gets to rule. Casitas (little bungalows or huts) are planted here in there within the jungle. Since they have large open facades, they are placed away from each other allowing for privacy.

The Jungle at the end of the rainy season intensifies the experience of nature; thousands of colorful crabs would run off the trails as we passed by, flying creators that looked like they came right out of Star Wars would hover in front of me, sending me telepathic messages, neon green grasshoppers resting by my mat, amazing butterflies accompanying me through my walks, and the sounds of fantastic singing birds filling the air as we meditated.

Haramara is built on the mountain slope with the yoga pavilion sitting high up overlooking the jungle and ocean, the beach, dramatic and powerful, with beautiful rocks, and expressive waves.

We started every morning at 7am, dark outside with a weaning moon. Candles lit the pavilion as meditated. During our practice the rising light began to shine and reveal the beauty of the jungle and ocean. Do the trees care if it is dark outside?

Longer yoga practices on retreats are such a delight. I find the 100 minute classes work so much better for me that 90. I could even be greedy and ask for 105.

I surrendered some of my control to Lauren that taught some classes and Kristen that offered us luscious Thai Yoga Massage sessions. It felt good to be a student while a teacher.

The dining room like all the structures combined natural elements with a clean design and a local feel. A large palm leaf roof covered the dining area; a wooden and marble floor support the tables made of wood and leather. Kerosene lamps lit everywhere as the sun was setting between the palm trees over the ocean.

Specialty tortilla chips and jicama juliennes were tools to lift amazing dips. Every night a different bright color would arrive. At first I heard ketchup and mustard from some guests, but soon we found out that it was beets and carrots. The food was creative and delicious, and the best part of it all was getting to know the people. It is such a unique way to learn about different people, their life and heritage, their views and stories. Before long we have created our own stories and toward the end of the week we have had our own past and inside jokes.

The week went by very quickly, leaving a paradise behind, a feeling of love and bliss from the practices and new found friends, bringing a better us to share with the world.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Internal clean up / The art for forgiveness

I sit with my eyes closed, and bring to my attention relationships, old and new. I observe what comes up. Sometimes it’s just a simple encounter I had with a person I didn’t even know, such as while driving; they wanted to get into my lane, but I was in a hurry and didn’t let them in. I realize that I still carry this with me, maybe I still feel bad about it, I am not sure, but it came up. So today I clean up. I say I apologize with my full intention and let it go. Learning my lesson to be more generous next time, I smile with gratitude at this lesson and move on.

Maybe there are relationships with people that come up that have a greater significance to you, a partner, parent, sibling or friend. You know if there were certain things left unclear. Maybe it’s just a gut feeling, or maybe it just feels that there is something always present underneath when we meet them. Begin by setting an intention in the mind and then go take action. Even if it is a year old, it is never too late to send a note, give a call or best of all say it in person.

Be honest, it might be that they are still hurt from something you said five years ago, but you keep to your self as you “know” you were right, and are waiting for them to take action. It’s not about calculating who was right, not about bringing back old frictions, but about being intelligent, kind and compassionate, maybe even being selfish. You need to clean this out of your head; it will do you and them good. Just imagine that feeling of lightness, of clarity that will come in instead. Wear a smile, bring flowers if needed, bake some healthy morning glory muffins, and off you go.

In the Jewish tradition there is a Day of Atonement (Yum Kippur). Once a year, people wear white, go to temple, and ask forgiveness. You don’t need to wait for a special day. It does not have to be spring for cleaning. Do this periodically, every time you find something comes up, and remember, It’s not about being right, it’s about moving on, showing you power through surrendering, with no need to prove anything. Peace is up to you and me in our little actions.